Ending Point: N51°40 E85°46
Distance Traveled: 481.0 miles
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It didn’t take long for us to reach the Russian border once we left Semey this morning. Funnily enough, that actually was a bit of a problem for us because we didn’t have a chance to blow our last remaining tenge on candy and beer at the last shop before the border, as was our custom. We did have the pleasure of meeting Raf at the border, who was a Belgian bicyclist riding from Brussels to Ulaanbataar. We were stuck at the border with Raf because we had the unfortunate timing to arrive as the night shift of border patrol was ending. At 8:30AM the border officer told Raf that he only had thirty minutes left on his shift and he wanted to spend those relaxing rather than working. We all waited for thirty minutes, and we excitedly greeted the new border officer who showed up exactly at 9 o’clock. Imagine our chagrin when he told us he had just woken up, and it would probably be about half an hour until he got his coffee and had some food. Exactly an hour after we arrived at 8:30, the morning shift finally took our paperwork and admitted us at 9:30. For the second time on our journey, we were back in Russia! Pretty soon over the border we recognized two other Rally cars even though we couldn’t tell who was in them, so we pulled them over discover our crazy South Africans who had cooked up breakfast back in Almaty! They were a part of There and Bactrian, a team of two South Africans, a Brit, and an Aussie, and they were convoying with Geographically Displaced, a team of large Norwegian men in a very small car. We quickly joined their convoy, and made the all-important stop of the day: the tire shop. The Mongol Rally can be described as a tour of the world’s tire shops, and somehow we had made it this far without getting to visit any ourselves. For the exorbitant price of 100 rubles (a little over $3) we got our tire fixed, while each of the other teams also got their tires in tip-top shape in preparation of entering Mongolia tomorrow. After a longer stop than was expected, we were on our way towards the Altai Mountains with our new friends! Starting Point: N46°04 E80°46
Ending Point: N51°40 E85°46 Distance Traveled: 481.0 miles
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We woke up on the early side and began our drive as soon as we could. Our goal for the day was to reach the Russian border, and we had some miles to put away! Over the course of the Rally Charla spent a large portion of her time studying the map, and today we learned that Kazakh people also enjoy maps. In the morning we were pulled over by the police (for the eighth time in Kazakhstan), and Chase walked up to the officer to see what the problem was this time. (Unlike in the US where you sit perfectly still when pulled over, in Kazakhstan the driver gets out and approaches the police officer to shake hands and exchange pleasantries.) Suddenly the officer surprised both of us by jumping in the drivers’ seat! Maintaining her cool, Charla gave him a tour of the Panda from the passenger seat, pointing out the maps, the snacks, and of course our giant stuffed panda. The officer took his time to study our map of Central Asia before hopping out and sending us on our way. A couple hours later we were doing our grocery shopping in a military town when two met approached us; they didn’t ask about us, they didn’t ask about the car, but they did ask about a map! For the second time in two hours Charla had the giant map out and then men were fascinated by where our journey had taken us so far. Our goal of getting to Russia was starting to seem a little too ambitious for today. We got into Semey around dinnertime, and after exploring the city decided it would be a fine place to dine. We devoured our meal in a local café, and as it as dark and raining we decided to stay in Semey for the evening. We decided to leave at sun-up the next morning, so it was coincidentally appropriate when the only hotel we could find was an hourly hotel. We kept it classy and purchased the 12-hour package, and called it a night. Starting Point: N46°04 E80°46
Ending Point: N50°23 E80°13 Distance Traveled: 384.4 miles Though there were eleven different Rally teams all staying at our same hostel, we finally did make it out of Almaty this morning! Our route took us north and east out of the city around Lake Kaphchagay and further on into the rolling hills of the Kazakh steppe. Unlike our adventures in western Kazakhstan, there weren’t any camel sightings here; instead of driving through sandy desert, we were gaining elevation and passing through very green and lush landscapes. When we weren’t busy admiring the scenery, we were playing leapfrog with an expedition motorcycle that had a license plate in Arabic; after a couple passes we all pulled over to talk, and we had the pleasure of meeting Johan, a South African who was riding a giant loop through Asia on a Bahraini-registered motorcycle. (We have a hard enough time using paperwork in English to get through borders using Cyrillic alphabets, and we couldn’t even imagine using paperwork in Arabic!) Johan had great tales and interesting plans, and we all decided to rendezvous later on in Ulaanbataar. After stopping at a cute little market in a small town, we found ourselves looking for a place to bed down for the evening. We pulled off the road onto a herding path, and set up camp beside the path a little way off the road. That night we were treated to one of nature’s finest shows! As we sat under stars enjoying dinner we had the pleasure of watching a captivating meteor shower overhead. The meteor shower ended when clouds rolled in, but the clouds kept the show going by hosting a lightning storm on the horizon that kept us company as we started to doze off. Starting Point: N43°13 E76°56
Ending Point: N46°04 E80°46 Distance Traveled: 347.1 miles Our day started when we wandered into the hostel’s kitchens to find two South Africans cooking a breakfast feast while lamenting that their Rally clothes hadn’t been enough to get them past the strict dress codes of Almaty’s clubs the night before. After a quick run to the shop to contribute ingredients, we sat back and spent the morning in the kitchen swapping stories and eating like royalty. Eventually around noon we decided it was time to hit the road, but one thing first: Chase wanted to check out the Green Bazaar, Almaty’s largest bazaar. Once we reunited with the Elephants and the Lumberyaks it was off to the Bazaar, only to discover that it was closed on Mondays. Luckily for us though there was a little market next door, where Chase was able to purchase the much-coveted traditional Kazakh hats. By the time we left the market (and we watched the Elephants and Lumberyaks get pulled over by Almaty’s finest), it was already after 3PM; rather than hitting the road at such a late hour, we decided to spend the afternoon doing personal admin and then meet with Chase’s friend Aggey in the evening. Right around sunset Aggey arrived at our hostel and offered to take us on a tour of his city. Aggey has spent his entire life living in Almaty and climbing tall peaks around the world; in June he had been in Alaska to climb Denali, and when he met Chase the two decided that they’d have to meet up during the Rally. Aggey’s pride in Almaty and in Kazakhstan in general was obvious as he told us the history of this major city at the crossroads of Central Asia. Well before we rolled into town in our Panda, the Mongols had crossed the Kazakh steppe, the traders of the Silk Road had plied their wares, the Soviet Union annexed Kazakhstan, revolution had led to the world’s longest-serving President in a “democracy,” and rapid development and modernization in a shrinking and increasingly-connected world all proved that Almaty is truly the social, cultural, historical, and financial capital of this interesting country. The highlight of the evening was when Aggey brought us to Kishlak, a traditional Kazakh restaurant in the heart of the city. Like Kazakhs, we drank green tea and fermented mare’s milk while reclining beside the low table that was surrounded by beautiful tapestries on the walls. Aggey explained that a “kishlak” is the name for a large camp when multiple families of traveling nomads all temporarily join together; the perfect symbolic parallel to our convoys all camping together in the Kazakh desert! We feasted on traditional meals ordered by Aggey, and went to bed that night with full stomachs, active imaginations, and a strong desire to make it back to this wonderful city. Starting Point: N43°13 E76°56
Ending Point: N43°13 E76°56 Distance Traveled: 5.3 miles We woke up to another incredible breakfast at An Artisan’s Guesthouse and then squeezed in a yoga session before heading out of town. On our way to Karakol Coffee, we passed a parking lot full of Mongol Rally cars and invited the ones that were ready to go to join us. Our last stop at Karakol Coffee was just as perfect as the first—good times with good people. We are so thankful to Aikerim. She said that she didn’t do anything, but she really did everything to make our time in Karakol wonderful just by being there and being her (and in doing so attracting a great group of people). Team Turnagain headed out of Karakol in convoy with the Elephants and the Lumberyaks. Together, we passed some of the most beautiful landscape of our trip. Yes, some of that journey was the most technically demanding driving of the Rally—we took the Panda across a gravel mountain pass that was over 6,000 feet in elevation where cows, sheep, and goats roam about and are herded by the folks living in the surrounding yurts—but those few hours were unforgettable. From the pass, we re-joined the main road leading us to the eastern border crossing of Lake Issyk Kul. As far as border crossings go, it was a good one: all three teams made it across in a fairly timely order, the Kyrgyz guards called us “G-Unit” and “Pamela Anderson,” and the Kazakh guard went through Chase’s passport and pointed to the landscape photos to indicate whether or not Kazakhstan had the featured animal or type of monument. From the border, we traveled across more breathtaking mountains until the sun set. It was our first time driving west, and we were driving into the sunset (either we’re doing something very right or very wrong). Not long after sunset, the Elephants blew a tire, and we had a bit of roadside repair by flashlight to prepare for the last stretch into Almaty. As we entered the city, the Elephants, our lead car, separated from us and the Lumberyaks, leaving us a little lost. As luck would have it, the five star Rixos Hotel was nearby, and they allowed us to use their wifi and complimentary city maps to find our way to the Almaty Backpackers’ Hostel. Now, the décor of the hostel in no way compared to that of the Rixos, but the people there absolutely made our evening—other Mongol Ralliers! We grabbed supplies from a nearby shop and made dinner with the Lumberyaks, which led to a late-night session with the Rally crew. Starting Point: N42°29E78°22
Ending Point: N43°13E76°56 Distance Traveled: 248.9 miles We finally took a day off to relax and to catch up on all of our things that needed catching up, including our blog! Karakol was the perfect place for such a day. We went downstairs in our guesthouse to find a full delicious breakfast awaiting us; the table (which seated 10) was covered with fruit, jams, honey, sweets, bread, and beverages, and so we were even more delighted when eggs and cheese arrived as well. After breakfast, we took it easy in our beautiful surroundings. Charla had a yoga session with Lisa Goodwin’s DVD, and then we set to work on our blog and correspondence. A while later, we thought a change in scenery was in order and headed to Karakol Coffee, where we continued working on our blog. While there, we met too many interesting new friends to be bothered with a computer any longer. Starting Point: N42°29 E78°22
Ending Point: N42°29 E78°22 Distance Traveled: 0 miles Today marked exactly two weeks from our target finish line party! Let’s hope we make it! Our morning by the lakeside started with a bit of shopping in the local market for supplies for a delicious breakfast in the apartment kitchen. As we were finishing our meal, the woman who helped us with renting the apartment made the first of her appearances for the day, which was a bit odd considering it was 9AM and we were checking out at 3PM. We made it clear that we did not want to reserve another night and for her sake agreed to check out an hour earlier. Thinking things were clear, we went down to the beach on the lake nearby for a bit of swimming and to take photos. The lake looked much better in the sunlight than it had the night before under grey skies. Charla even found a nice captain’s hat to go with our pirate-maritime theme on the trip (yes, we know we’re not on the sea)! Back at the apartment, the renting assistant lady made a second appearance, this time a much less pleasant one, as she barged in while we were trying to get dressed, packed, and have lunch before leaving in a couple hours. After all of her fuss, we tossed our bags outside and ate lunch from our camping plates on the street. Needless to say, we were not impressed. Hoping for a better atmosphere, we headed to Sambuca Café in nearby Cholpon-Ata (the main beach town on the north side of the lake) for some afternoon refreshments, Internet, and planning for the day. As we left the busy beach town overrun with folks from the capitol on holiday, the day dramatically improved. Traffic thinned down and the road narrowed. The scenery, however, remained just as beautiful, as we could see snow-capped mountains across the lake on one side and the rugged mountains closer by on our side of the lake. Soon, we found ourselves in Karakol. We came to this small town because a couple weeks ago in Volgograd, Russia, we met Daniel at the Local Hostel, who had opened a coffee shop called Karakol Coffee. He gave us his business card, so we looked around town for a logo that matched. Before arriving at the coffee shop, we met two Israeli tourists here for trekking and looking for a place to stay; we were excited to meet other backpackers, as we knew there had to be good stuff in this town! A few blocks after meeting them, we were at Karakol Coffee for a chat with Aikerim. Then, we were on our way to An Artisan’s Guesthouse with Katie, who is from Washington and studying the traditional Kyrgyz lute here. Once settled in, we returned to Karakol Coffee to hang out for the evening—the first time we have really relaxed in ages.
Starting Point: N42°39 E77°12 Ending Point: N42°29 E78°22 Distance Traveled: 97.3 miles Judging by the crowd, we began our day in Bishkek much like everyone else: with a trip to the main bazaar. We were happier with our room choice for the previous night when we just had to walk a couple blocks to reach the bazaar and passed a bakery on the way, where Charla found a slice of breakfast honey-chocolate cake. As we walked around, Chase found his breakfast in the bazaar itself—meat on a stick and a fresh meat and potato samosa. While the food was great, the beverage was not; sour coconut milk is not a good pairing with fresh, delicious food. The good far out-weighed the bad in the bazaar, especially once Charla found some stylish leggings that put together the Union Jack and the Icelandic flag. She’s ready for some cooler temperatures once we get to high altitude in Russia. After a good morning in the market, we left town for the famed Lake Issyk Kul. We took a route that mixed directions from our paper map and Google Maps, being sure that we didn’t accidentally re-enter Kazakhstan and use the last of our available entries, and the drive was gorgeous. We passed between Kazakh and Kyrgyz mountains, over some small rivers, and through a sunflower field before rejoining the main road that took us through the mountain pass and on to the lake. We thought the somewhat heavy traffic on the still-under-construction road was somewhat normal until we arrived in the town of Bosteri and started looking for a place to stay. We checked out a few places as we searched for the one Rashid recommended, and we soon found out it was a holiday weekend in a lake-beach town at full capacity. Luckily, we had been trying the find a place while following a man in a Toyota who seemed to know what was going on. When we got a chance to talk to Mairambek, who had spent a year living in the US, he told us about his search for a room and kindly helped us find an apartment near the town market before finding his own. We were thankful once we settled in and then went for a walk around the neighborhood and down to the beach. Our walk back took us through a small market (tiny compared with the one we had experienced in the morning) where Charla picked up some fresh vegetables to add to dinner. Today’s lesson: Fresh coconut, good. Sour coconut milk, not good. Starting Point: N42°53 E74°36
Ending Point: N42°39 E77°12 Distance Traveled: 182.6 miles We woke up very early with hopes to recover some of the delay we experienced the day before due to the horrendous road conditions, and we set off for Bishkek. Our first town on the day’s route was Turkestan, which we had heard great things about from our French backpacker friend in Aralsk. The city’s architecture was stunning and a glimpse into the Uzbek architecture we wouldn’t get to see on this journey (why didn’t we get Uzbek visas again?). We met a couple of wonderful people at the Gazprom station in town who shared a bit more about the city and region with us; the conversation started when one said in perfect English that he spoke Kazakh but not English. We were incredibly excited about this part of the country as we left. Then, driving through town, a dog doubled back on its trip across the street at the same time that we were crossing. We were horrified when we heard it, but then amazed when we stopped and found it still running and seemingly OK and on its way to care from a couple of locals, including a man we played charades with on the side of the road. After a bit of shock, things got better when we were pulled over yet again by the police for a curiosity stop. Just after we left the police, we passed another Rally team heading in the opposite direction and on the other side of a concrete barrier. We honked, and they honked; yet, we couldn’t seem to find a place to talk to each other and kept going. After an insane fifteen miles through Turkestan, the rest of the drive through the small part of southern Kazakhstan we crossed was uneventful. We were pulled over again, and we stopped to ask a couple policemen for directions in Shymkent. We grew to like the Kazakh police; they were by far the most friendly police on our journey and some of the most pleasant (and smiling!) people we talked to in all of Kazakhstan. In Shymkent, we also came very close to adopting a pet for our journey when we saw a small puppy outside of a shop; fortunately/unfortunately, he was well cared for by everyone working there. Leaving Kazakhstan through the border crossing after Merki, we had a surprisingly easy, dare we say enjoyable border experience. Leaving Kazakhstan was a breeze, and then entering Kyrgyzstan, we encountered border officials who were excited about our journey and the charities we were benefiting. (Did you forget about them? Check out Cool Earth and the Lotus Children’s Centre, and help us on our campaign!) One guard even rose to shake Chase’s hand twice and offer him a cigarette—a meaningful gesture even though he doesn’t smoke—while the guards laughed and passed around Charla’s thick passport. The drive between the border and Bishkek was a short one, and though unsure where we were in the city, the place we found for the evening was a good one. While looking for wifi in the area between the bazaar and a park-lined street, we chance upon the Koisha Hotel, where Rashid came to meet us. As we walked through the city center, he gave us a quick overview of the main sights, including the opera house, UN house, and Bishkek University. Our walk ended at a nice coffee shop that served quality drinks and café food where we were able to catch up with Rashid on his exciting career in international relations and his thoughts on Kyrgyzstan. Starting Point: N43°56 E67°14
Ending Point: N42°53 E74°36 Distance Traveled: 478.3 miles We were not able to see much of the landscape as we drove southeast the night before and so we imagined hills or desert. When the sun came up, we found ourselves in the middle of open desert with camels surrounding our camp! It was quite early, but we said goodbye to the one member of From Denmark to Mongolia that was awake and left a note for the Thunderyaks, knowing that we would see them again sometime soon. We had hoped to make it to Aralsk the night before, but we weren’t disappointed when it only took an hour to reach there in the morning. We entered the town and passed under an archway with an anchor on it, hoping to see some remainder of the former port on the Aral Sea—a sea that has tragically receded from where it once bordered the town. Passing near the town square, we met a French backpacker traveling solo by train throughout the region, who helped us examine our options for seeing ships in the desert. From what he had found, a Jeep tour was the best idea but we didn’t have time to do a tour and still make our goal of Bishkek the next evening. So, we thanked our new friend and spent a little while wondering around town then continued southeast. About an hour outside Aralsk, we spotted a view tower that we could climb. From there, we could see a small body of water that used to be part of the massive sea. Leaving the view tower, we had nice roads, and then the roads started to be not-so-nice. After being pulled over yet again for a curiosity stop, we picked up a nail in our tire. Luckily, Chase is quite skilled when it comes to fixing flats, so we got the Panda back in shape and continued our journey. We had a few more miles of deceptively nice roads before the road monster roared its ugly head. Driving to Kyzylorda was hell. Sandstorms blew up as we bounced along the small roads that resembled Swiss cheese with so many potholes. Seemingly mocking our attempts were construction crews working on brand new roads a few meters away. We eventually got out of the area with minimal damage to the Panda and were happy to be pulled over by the police yet again as we entered Kyzylorda. All smiles with the flat tire, but by the end of the day, we were exhausted! Just outside the city, we realized we had again missed a time zone change as the sun set shockingly early according to our clocks. As the highway between Kyzylorda and Turkestan was filled with lane changes and animals on the road, we pulled off near Zhanakorgan to rest and recover from a long, crazy day of driving. Starting Point: N47°33 E61°30
Ending Point: N43°56 E67°14 Distance Traveled: 477.5 miles |